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By Leslie Sellers (Auth.)

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And served with the mushroom sauce described on page 6, or even better (and more traditionally) a Madeira sauce. For this there are many complex recipes, which take you back through mazes of cross-references via demiglacé and Espagnole to a desperate last-minute making of Oxo gravy. I offer one fairly straightforward recipe. Finely chop a small onion and a rasher of bacon and soften them in a k n o b of dripping. Add a level dessertspoonful of flour and cook very slowly till the colour changes.

Pour some of the mixture over the sponge cake slices. Add more slices and more chocolate till all is used u p , but make sure you finish with a layer of cake. Put the lot in the fridge overnight, then coat it all with stiffly whipped cream. Scatter with grated chocolate and it's ready to serve. Chocolate Chesnut Gâteau 7 eggs 9 oz caster sugar 7 oz plain chocolate black coffee 8 oz chestnut purée or ready-prepared chestnuts i~i pint double cream There is a history to this recipe, and it is one of failure to deliver goods of the nature and substance demanded.

Test for seasoning—it may be salt enough, but a good sprinkling of black pepper improves the flavour. This one is better not with dumplings but with pieces of crisp fried bread floating on the surface. Snap-crackle-pop, as they say on the packets that hold your sunshine breakfast. S h a n k ' s Mousse 2 ham shanks 1 oz butter 1 oz plain flour 1£ gills milk salt pepper \ cupful cream or top of Jersey milk mustard cayenne pepper few tomatoes 4 hours cooking time Another recipe based on the ubiquitous h a m shank —and one that looks and tastes expensive at that.

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